In all likelihood the most bothersome ectoparasite is also the most common one.
The tiny flea is seen in backyard or kenneled dogs, and denser infestations are encountered on dogs inhabiting hotter, more humid climates.
Cat fleas are found quite commonly on dogs.
The parasite inhabits part of its life cycle off the dog, and is therefore hard to treat definitively.
Fleas cause additional problems; they are secondary hosts for tapeworms and the fleas' saliva may cause allergic reaction in dogs that's puzzling to diagnose and difficult to treat.
Fleas bite the dog, causing small lesions in the skin, then lick the blood as it seeps from the wound.
Full-grown fleas are able to jump great distances; occasionally they land on humans.
They aren't picky where they receive their blood meal, but can generally be found on a dog or cat when one is available.
A fined-tooth comb can be used to find fleas.
Carefully run it through the dog's hair over the area of his pelvis.
The parasites will be caught between the flea comb's teeth, or will leap from his hair in front of the comb.
If you don't notice adult fleas, you might run across some of their excreta (feces), which appear as tiny, black, comma shaped debris.
Fleas are quite annoying to the dog, whether or not they cause an allergy.
They're oftentimes responsible for the dog's licking, chewing, and scratching, and the formation of hot spots, another skin problem.
A part-time occupant on the dog, the flea arrives on its host, feeds, mates, and lays eggs.
The eggs are deposited on the dog, and fall off in the doghouse or on your carpet.
The eggs hatch into larvae that feed on dandruff and other organic debris.
The larvae pupate, adults emerge, and start searching a host.
The adult flea can live for more than 100 days without a blood meal.
Whenever a flea problem is discovered, break out the heavy artillery...
don't take this infestation lightly! Vacuum the doghouse and your carpets with dog-safe flea killers: - Borax powder is usually a safe product to use on dogs' bedding and carpets; it's nontoxic, killing fleas by dehydration.
- A premise spray or flea bomb can be used to rid the home of this parasite, however, both can be quite dangerous unless all label instructions are carefully followed.
- There are various new flea-repellent products available from your veterinarian.
Some are in oral tablet form; others are in liquid form that's applied topically on the dog's skin once a month.
Some kill the flea eggs; others kill just the adult.
Follow your veterinarian's advice about the products, their safety, cost, and effectiveness.
- New biological control programs are currently being pioneered in a few areas.
One involves the yard application of tiny nematodes (worms) that eat flea eggs but are harmless to humans and pets.
Others include the utilization of insect growth regulators (IGR) that interfere with the flea's life cycle.
- A new generation of flea collars is also available that repels the parasites, instead of killing them after they cause their damage.
- Organic products such as pyrethrum and other natural insecticides are usually considered safer.
That may or may not be the case, but they're less effective than the contemporary products.
- A collar is available that gives off high pitch sounds to repel fleas, however its effectiveness is suspect.
- Don't use oral medication, dips, sprays, powders, medicated collars, or other drugs that are not labeled for the dog's specific age and weight.
Don't use more than one product on the dog at a time without approval by your veterinarian.
Also be careful with the use of all systemic medicines in a pregnant or lactating female.